Painting With Inks

Daniel Paddock asked the rec.games.miniatures.misc newsgroup the following questions: "What exactly are inks? I have heard reference to them numerous times in miniature related discussions. Are they actual ink? Could I use standard Higgins and Kohinor inks? How are they used? And finally are they worth it?"

Musket Man: Paddy, inks are indeed inks. My overall favorite is Payne's Gray, others will probably suggest Burnt Siena. Inks should have pigment in them (look for waterproof acrylic for fluid techniques on the label). Rennaisance Inks has a wide variety, as should your local artists' supply store.

Andy O'Neill: Acrylic inks are... acrylic based inks. Others may not be. Winsor and Newton make water soluble inks which are very useful due to the lack of surface tension. I recommend you buy: Winsor and Newton Nut Brown and Peat.

Inks are used mainly for washes. Thin and paint into the low-lights of a figure. The stuff gathers in the lowest bits and darkens them. You can also mix with acrylics for various effects. There other more subtle effects, such as glazing, but I'd not worry too much about that.

I use them because I prefer liquid orientated techniques over dry- brushing ones. IMO the former are faster, produce as good results as the latter with less effort and less ruined brushes. It is, however, arguable that dry brushing requires less skill.

Sheila Davis: I've just started painting with inks on some of my figures (that's painting, not just washing). If your hand is steady enough, you can get excruciatingly fine details. Unfortunately, I'm not that good. But I have discovered, that 2-3 coats of a brighter color on top of a white primer produce a gorgeous silky texture with the highlights and shadows filled in for you automatically. This is great for clothes and fur, not recommended for armour or fleshtones.

BTW, I discovered by accident that Higgins ink will fade in direct sunlight. I've not encountered that problem with Citadel or Winsor & Newton (my favorite).

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Last Updated: July 12, 1999

Comments, questions and additions welcome. Send them to Chris Brantley at brant@erols.com.